Back in USA

Although never far from the Rocky Mountains, we left much of the alpine environment behind for the moment (we will return to it today in Glacier NP, MT).

The roads are of some interest. Generally extremely good to travel on - and due to the summer they are being used by many people such as ourselves. Joining us are the many travellers in RVs (mobile homes for those of us who speak Australian English!) but also many motorbikes. Mainly very large Harley Davidsons, they are ridden by both men and women who all seem to wear black helmets and of course black leathers. I am told that during colder weather their gear also includes body heaters which plug into the bike. Even Bill doesn't think he would be bothered! They carry such a lot of gear on these massive bikes. Oh, how I wish for my pink helmet with butterflies on it! I am sure they would look at it with horror!

We did not note many trucks along Highway 1, which crosses Canada. This may be due to the railway, which seems to have many extremely long goods trains using it. Just ask us - our otherwise perfect night at Castle Mtn was only marred by the regular 3 - 4 toots all night long. We realised this was due to a railway crossing in the forest just behind our cabin and a requirement is that they toot when approaching these crossings - all night long!

Highways 95/93 have more trucks on them (but nothing like Aust!). Yesterday afternoon we pulled up alongside a river to eat our fruit and veg products and have a rest before crossing back into USA. Our peace was disturbed by a truck, which despite a general rule in Canada that you cannot idle your motor - left its motor running while the driver presumably had a sleep in his much quieter cabin. Grrrrr... We moved on to a far more appropriate lake (they call it a beach.....), where the only disruption to our nap appeared to be the ground squirrels who wanted to eat Laura's biscuits.

Our crossing in USA was eventless, with a very pleasant border crossing guard (which could be classified as an event in itself!) Now, in Montana we find we are in real cattle country - it feels like we have entered 'the west'! People have been so nice and so friendly!

A farmers market in Whitefish, where we stayed last night ran from 5pm until about 8pm and was a massive hub for families and various people enjoying a warm, summer night. What a great idea! Local entertainers and all sorts of little stalls, though we noted once again no real horticultural pursuits, so no cherries or blueberries around here.

As shops stay open late every night (and I think many supermarkets are open all night even in the smaller towns), we then wandered down the main street, where once again a couple of bluegrass bands entertained 'folks'. Laura was hugely entertained by a book she bought ('Who Pooped in the Park?") and her laughter at it entertained the locals! Although a comparatively recent area for settlement by Europeans, the store fronts have been designed to maintain the 'old west' image.

The Duck Inn, where we stayed is a warm and welcoming, small hotel (15 rooms), where the owner has just brought me a freshly baked choc-chip muffin which I must go and wash down with some of the Moroccan Tea she also has on tap....!

Castle Mountain

Here it is, 10.30pm, dusk is continuing and we are staying in a log cabin near Castle Mountain near Banff in the Rocky Mountains. As we drove through the awesome scenery with snow capped mountains, lakes and rivers rushing from the snow melt today we also spotted some of the wildlife. Of particularly note were the longhorn sheep, deer, elk and black bears we saw grazing by the roadway as we drove back from Banff.

Around the cabin are many of Laura's favourite ground squirrels, who poke their heads out to say hello from time to time. The view outside our door is of the towering Castle Mountain.

Lake Louise, nearby is absolutely awesome. The glacier can be seen from 7km away and when ice crashes down it takes 20 seconds for the sound to reach the other end of the lake. The face of the glacier is 60m high, but looks just a couple! There were many people here, including quite a number canoeing on the lake.

Earlier today we left Salmon Arm and travelled through Glacier NP in British Columbia, before entering Alberta. Today has really been a trip through some wonderful scenery - typical of Canadian postcards.

Yesterday we travelled through valleys where cherries, wine grapes and stone fruit are grown. We ate some of the best cherries we have had in years bought from roadside stalls along the way. This is one of the few agricultural areas around here.

In the valleys, the weather is quite warm but towering mountains all around are snow capped. The melting snow creates many rushing rivers and lakes. Where there is high rainfall, the trees tower above and at times are incredibly dense. Though we notice they are virtually all one species in pine tree. Deer and elk can occasionally be seen grazing in the meadows, while of course Mr & Mrs Bear (s) were somewhat elusive as they lumbered through the forest. We have been told that this year there are many more bears to be seen due to high rains in Spring which created excellent grasslands. The wild bighorn sheep with Laura were grazing along the roadside. Both she and I were somewhat nervous about this photo shoot - given the size of those horns, but they did not seem too perturbed by our presence. Most other animals will scoot off pretty quickly.

Vancouver to Osoyoos

Our morning started early - we were awake, so hit the road by about 8am. This meant we were able to stop for an early walk and have breakfast at Bridal Falls.

Back on the road, we drove through alpine forests with ski resorts along the road. At our next stop - one of these resorts, these funny little creatures were poking their heads up from holes all over the place. We found that they are ground squirrels, who only come out May, June, July. The rest of the year they hibernate in the network of tunnels underground.

The countryside opened up, with far less vegetation, though many very fast flowing rivers alongside the road. A number of Indian Reservations were placed alongside these rivers. At one point there was a large open-cut mine visible. There were many motorbikes along this road, being a Saturday.

Although we were quite tired when we arrived in Osoyoos, the Holiday Inn is located on the edge of a beautiful lake. The warm weather (low 30s) was so nice that Bill and Laura decided to take the opportunity for a kayak ride while I sat in the shade (I noticed everyone else sitting in the sun - I suppose when you have a short summer you grab every bit of sun you can!).

We have had a swim in the pool, a sit in the hot-tub, been down to the supermarket to buy goods for dinner, which I have cooked in the microwave and we have eaten. Daylight still, so Laura and Bill have gone for a walk along the waterfront. A lovely night for it - and a popular activity for a Saturday night. I can see them from our front window, overlooking the lake.

I was told by one of the motorcycling couples that the temperature here can reach the mid 40s in summer - one of the very few places in Canada to do so. It is comparatively temperate in winter also - snowing on only a couple of weeks per year. I think he did say the average winter temp is minus.... I am glad we are here now.

Capilano and Grouse

Now we have our own vehicle, the real thing begins. Charlotte is stocked with food and we are ready to hit the road today, heading for Osoyoos, BC.

Yesterday some sights around Vancouver were truly spectacular.

Capilano Suspension Bridge crosses a gorge in the temperate rainforest. I believe a scene from Twilight was shot here, for the Twilight fans out there!

The First Nation People are well represented here, with some magnificent wood carvings along the path to the bridge. Whilst crossing was not a particularly pleasant experience for me, Bill and Lozza loved it. Eventually the ground became stable on the other side and we went for a guided walk through the forest, where a nibble on some hemlock settled my somewhat disturbed tummy. Another first nation remedy involved the second largest slug in the world - a banana slug. The slime from this slug was used as a dental anaesthetic, with Lozza confirmed for the group by licking it! She assures us that it was effective!

A skywalk above the trees (once again including suspension walkways - thankfully shorter) gave a view from above the Douglas Fir, Hemlock and Maple trees.

Further up the mountain is Grouse Mountain, a winter ski resort open in summer for sight seeing. A Skylift took us to the top of the mountain, where some snow still lies. What were we thinking? Bill and I took an immediate trip to the tourist trap, where we acquired the most expensive sloppy joes we will ever acquire! Both of us were also in sandals and Bill wore shorts. We, like many others, just dealt with this! Lozza, being a Victorian didn't notice it!

A further ride up the mountain in a chair lift avoided a walk called the "Grouse Grind" - a winter ski run. Not for the faint hearted, we are assured. From here spectacular views over Vancouver impressed us. Back down to the top of the Skylift, where we watched the two grizzly bears playing in their dams. These orphaned bears have a 5 acre enclosure and appear to know what their role is when it comes to tourists. The raptor show was also impressive, with USA's emblem, the bald eagle strutting his stuff. Laura was probably most impressed by a tiny chipmunk who entertained us as we walked along the path, once again admiring the stunning red cedar carvings. Beneath the skylift 3 wolves (2 white), also brought into captivity through some mismeandour in life slept in their reservation.

Traffic back into Vancouver was heavy so we stopped in West Vancouver for dinner, followed by a shopping trip for provisions. The whole foods supermarkets that we have seen throughout USA and Canada are fully provisioned with organic and healthy food options! Yay! Makes my life somewhat easier. It has been difficult finding appropriate food for me. I am sick of iceberg lettuce salads with not much else in them. Whole foods is like heaven on earth!

I think we have a lot of berry products to consume over the next few days. 1lb of blueberries, blueberry/blackberry juice, berry jam for our wholemeal bread (minus the corn syrup that is in every commercial product available elsewhere). It is all sounding berry good to me!

Starting the real stuff!

Bill has been worried about the car I have hired for the next month. It was described as 'full size', as I figured we would be going a long way so comfort would be good. He imagined the full sized USA car of old, and was having nightmares at the prospect of driving it on the wrong side of the road, hemisphere etc in unfamiliar territory. That was until they upgraded us to a Chevy Traverse (4 x 4). He seems to have got over his concern about driving a large car and is more than happy with it!

When our son, David married recently his wedding car was unavailable at the last minute and he was offered a Mercedes upgrade, which he chose not to take in favour of a 4 x 4. We were also offered a Merc, but the Chevy won the day. Like father, like son!

Our first adventure in Charlotte started today....next blog!

Angie's Graduation Luncheon

It was great to have a different focus to our travels today. After leaving our hotel, located in the hotel and backpacker section of the city and walking downtown for breakfast at Starbucks, we enjoyed a bit of retail therapy at Sears, a major department store.

Vancouver is a pretty city, smaller than Sydney but with a similar 'feel' in some ways. Waterways are surrounded by quite hilly residential areas, then the towering moutains (some still with snow even in mid summer) edge the frame. Although yesterday was a clear day, we were not able to see Mt Baker many kilometres away in Washington State from the viewpoint at the top of a building.

We were able to look back across the harbour we had crossed in the Seabus earlier in the day with Jaye, Bill's nephew. We were also able to watch the seaplanes landing in this harbour.

Jaye's partner, Angie recently graduated in nursing, so the parties are continuing. We were pleased to be able to join in on the luncheon put on by her family in their beautiful home on the slopes leading up to the mountains across the harbour. A number of Angie's closer friends from Uni and also their families were present and enjoyed swimming in the pool - heated to a comfortable temperature.

The summer temps include a maximum in the low 20 degrees during the day, with evenings some few degrees cooler. Vancouver is said to have a milder winter than much of Canada, with snow on an average of 11 days per year and average temps around 6 degrees. Of course it is a short drive (30min) to a number of the best snow fields in the world. Of significance to us are the long days, with extended twilight that we saw until at least 11pm on the night we flew in. Last night we fell into bed around 10pm - broad daylight. This morning we awoke around 5.30am - broad daylight.

Murphy

I believe Murphy has some laws that include the acknowledgement that not every day will go to plan. Leaving DC filled that criteria.

Started out well, with a sleep in and relaxing start as we prepared for our shuttle to Baltimore, which arrived promptly at 10.30am. Then there was the inevitable accident on the freeway, which caused a traffic delay but we had planned for that, so still arrived at 12 noon for our 2.20pm flight.

Confusion started when we could not check in at the automatic check-in booth. Like so many around us, Delta does not provide too many humans to actually answer questions and the lines are long for the counters. After a while the message started to go around that no-one for our flight could check in, as we would have to go to the special services desk - it was delayed. No reason given, just delayed until 4.15pm. Aha. We can cope with that.

I have found that USA women are assertive and will argue, so when the check-in guy wanted to charge us $75 for luggage because it was domestic, I reminded him that Canada is international. No - it seems it is not considered so with Delta. But then there is precedent, because on our flight from NY - DC it was free because we had an 'international component', so I argued precedent and finally won. I have noted that USA men tend to know better than argue with a fired up women, so I guess an Aussie is even worse!

So, the afternoon passed and we waited, and waited, and waited. Departure gates changed, as did the departure time. Gradually other flights were also delayed, so the departure lounges became crowded, not only with passengers, but also crew who also are used to joining in this apparently common event. Airline's fault - they may assist with food, accommodation etc, weather fault - nothing. We got nothing. Gradually news filtered through that it was storms and tornado watch.

Everyone was in remarkably good spirits - accepting of the situation, as the departure time was changed to finally see us leaving Baltimore around 6pm -well after our connection flight at Minneapolis to take us to Vancouver. Delta did assist here and put us on another later flight, which finally got us into Vancouver just before midnight (with time changes - 9hrs total) and after midnight by the time we finally cleared customs etc. (Why do they do that if it is not international?)

Jaye and Angie had just given up waiting for us at the airport. God love 'em! We were not able to contact them as we hadn't thought to get their phone number and Baltimore Airport was one of the few without free wi-fi. Scrooge was too stingy to pay 9.95 plus USA tax plus Aussie tax and fee for using a credit card just to send one email!

But we did find out that it is best not to mention visiting family in the reasons for a visit when entering a country! Next question: Where do they live? Vancouver. Where abouts in Vancouver? No idea. What is their phone number? No idea. Now, who looked stupid?! We now have their phone number!

Today, we will do something about getting a wi-fi stick, some local cell phone cards and making ourselves a little more in tune with local communications! Then we go to Angie's graduation luncheon with her family. Looking forward to this real change in pace.

Another day in DC

Our day started with a wander through the Bishop's Garden at the nearby National Cathedral while we waited for opening. A tour through this magnificent cathedral, built just over 100 years ago in the Gothic tradition was well worthwhile.

A slightly less heated ride on the double-decker to Lincoln Memorial, where Laura impersonated Forrest, whilst Nan and Pop played Jenny (we are not into running up and down steps!)

A long walk (it was now early afternoon and very hot, so our red, white and blue rocket ice blocks melted faster than we could lick them) down The Mall, past the memorials for Vietnam and also WWII allowed us to reflect on the enormous tragedy of these two events in terms of lives lost. This was to be nothing compared to the horrors of reflecting on the experiences for Daniel and others who experienced the Holocaust. Daniel's Story is well set up for children and is a good preliminary experience before the main museum. Laura certainly learnt more history here than a year of schooling could ever achieve, and hopefully some values relating to tolerance that will last a lifetime.

The Metro in the evening rush-hour is no different to any other rail system in peak hour - except that with two escalators not working (this seems to be common around here), after another day of 'walking miles', this was somewhat of a challenge for yours truly. To give the locals due credit - not one person bumped into me as I made my somewhat slow way up or down, which unfortunately I cannot say would be the case in Brisbane.

In general I have found people to be highly considerate of others. This is of course more noticeable in a potential tipping situation, where they will generally go out of their way to offer service. I am not sure that we have fully mastered the art of who to tip and who not to.... Nor have we fully mastered the art of establishing that the advertised price is the actual price, or when tax must be added.

Nb: Sorry about the blurry picture - I can get them in, but so far haven't mastered the art of getting them out. Watch this space.....!

Here we are in the most beautiful, Georgetown - Washington DC. The buildings are truly magnificent and we are in amongst the University buildings, so I feel quite comfortable! A flea-market at the nearby school yesterday was full of antiques - the other local fascination. Embassies are not far up the road, but we haven't found the Aussie one yet.

Father's Day yesterday was a fairly quiet event, where we had dinner in the hotel restaurant. Impressively, there was not a lot of commercialism surrounding this day, but Bill was wished a Happy Fathers Day in the nearby Safeway supermarket (where Laura ordered a 'small soda' and was given a 20oz cup!). Linda, who served in the liquor aisles donated a nice quality corkscrew to the Aussies, as well as taking Laura for a sample 'chocolate and M & M covered pretzel'. Hmmmm. She did finish both the soda and the pretzel eventually, but this proved to be an extended event! I made her eat an apple today!

Once again today we were on a big red bus. We caught the highly efficient Metro (which puts the Australian public transport systems to shame) into the city, then did about half the tour. The weather is quite hot (90 degrees plus) and sitting on top of a bus was not so 'cool'. By lunchtime we left this tour for some much needed water and decided instead to view a couple of the Smithsonian museums - American History and American Native. Some good learning opportunities for Laura, but probably the highlight was posing beside Dorothy's ruby shoes for a photo shoot!

An advantage of the much slower pace here in DC is that we have been able to relax by the pool of an evening - today's solstice giving us daylight until after 9pm - when the pool shuts.

Uptown, Madame Tussauds & Empire State Bldg

Saturday morning in NYC, where a profession can be made out of 'poodle walking' (Milo, eat your heart out, but you would hate it!). Quite obviously the gorgeous standard knew exactly where he wanted to shop - the pet mart, but his owner clearly had a different idea!

Back on the big, red bus for another noisy day... but Harlem was to surprise us! Loads of high-rise public housing (around $300 per month), but clean, tidy grounds looked pleasant enough with kids seemingly playing happily enough in the playgrounds. A beautiful park beside the river contained General Grant's tomb, whilst over the road the rather famous Riverside Church was being prepared for a couple of events. In the downtown area, the sounds of gospel singers rang out along the streets (mainly Southern Baptists we are told, though all religions side by side). People busy with their Saturday morning shopping and markets.

A stop at The Met, where Laura was 'bullied' out of her swing at a nearby playground in Central Park but shortly later advised the perpetrators that "In Australia, we share" and joined them on the swing (a large tyre type). Nan and Pop had a good laugh at the look on one of the madame's faces!

Rejoined the bus to head to Madame Tussaud's. Wow! The stars we met! Many years ago we banned Laura from ever squealing in our company. She got to 'let loose' in the "Scream" display - a modern version of a walk-through ghost train with real actors included!

A beautiful Saturday afternoon 'chill out' in Central Park - what has to be the jewel of this amazing city before we joined the night bus tour that took us slowly through the traffic over the double-decker Manhatten Bridge, with a return on the lower deck (beside the train line) due to road works on the upper deck. How do people in those apartments beside the bridge approaches ever sleep - even with double glazed windows? The noise was absolutely phenomenal.

Saturday night in NYC could only be described as exciting (and crowded - reminiscent of Sydney NYE). A perfect night for the top of the Empire State Building at late dusk! Minimal wait in line (maybe 20 mins) before the most amazing lights of this massive area were reflected amongst its rivers, harbour, buildings.

Santa Monica

Courtesy of the bird man. No, the cockatoo is not dead. It actually lies on its back. Weird. Must be what happens when you move to USA

Some photos

"Bye Mum. That is the boarding call! See you in a few weeks!"

Downtown NY

The open top double-decker bus tour of Downtown! A hot day and NYC is its normal loud, busy, bustly self. So much to see. So many buildings. All those yellow cabs.

Left tour at Battery Park and took Statten Is Ferry past the Statue of Liberty. Decided against spending time on the island, imagining it to be somewhat like Moreton or maybe Straddy. Apparently it is one of only two major structures visible from outer-space, the other being the Great Wall of China. Statten's claim to fame is that it contains the world's most visibly huge garbage dump!

Back to Battery Park, armed with a pretzel to eat before we walked up to see the somewhat heart-wrenching development taking place at Ground Zero. A time of contemplation in the Church that became the rest centre for volunteers before rejoining the bus for another hour of slow weaving through the busy streets. There is so much to NY - so many buildings of note so much to take in. Laura and Bill are resting before we go tonight to Broadway for the performance of Wicked!

New York, New York!

June 17 started with a walk around the park near our hotel in LA. 26 local government vehicles were working on maintenance of the pool, park and baseball pitch. Yes, we had not thought about that obsession! Everyone is talking baseball!

Then airports and planes. Atlanta was huge, with a train transfer between the numerous terminals. Also a modern and busy airport - no doubt the Olympics having helped this.

Finally NY around midnight. Nearly caught by a bogus 'taxi driver' who we thought was the taxi organiser and took off with 2 bags into the carpark - a middle aged caucasion wearing a suit. We know that one now and have a contingency plan - but of course will not allow anyone to take our bags for us again!

Trip to our Midtown hotel in a real taxi - 70mph, but slowed to 40mph for radar so assume that is the actual limit!

Laura and I have laughed and laughed at the USA 'bathrooms'! The most notable was the black one, with deep red tiling and very low lighting. An auto light came on from the floor once you found the toilet and sat on it. Then, of course went off when you stood up. As if that wasn't bad enough..... We both stood there with hands outstretched to wash them, but no basins..... Felt around walls for potential trick basins that dropped from wall. Nup. Used a toilet seat cover to wipe our hands then went outside. Of course basins were outside, where there was light!

Already feeling a little confused we just couldn't quite master the automatic tap and soap dispenser for a few moments - and of course the fits of laughter did not help our thinking processes too much!

USA bathrooms - always a challenge for us 'downunders'!

A long day in LA

June 16, 2010 started early in Wamuran for Bill and Liz, Bendigo for Laura. We met at Sydney and QANTAS provided an excellent service on the new 380 Airbus to LA. After settling into our room, a decision was made to 'push on' through the day, despite none of us having slept much on the flight. The public bus down to Santa Monica was an experience. Finding suitable food for me was not so easy. As a result, by 3pm we ended up at good old McDonalds, where a salad could be bought. A bus up to Venice Beach for the 'cultural experience' - one where we felt that many people had been frozen in time during the 1960s! A fairly complex bus trip back to the hotel required 3 buses, but gave us the opportunity to stop in at a supermaket for some supplies for dinner and breakfast. As I type this at 7.45pm, Bill and Laura are both soundly sleeping after one of the longest days of our lives!

10 sleeps to go

Excitement is building.

We have airline tickets, hotels booked for first few days, car hire organised, international driving licences, Broadway tickets... There are so many other possibilities to organised, but really the main things to take are Bill, Liz, Laura and of course the credit card.

The realities of leaving home for a few weeks require some thought. Toby and Milo, chooks, bills to pre-pay, home security (though Ashley will be here), plant care, clients to notify......

Welcome to our trip! We will enjoy sharing our travels with you along the way.